Sunday, November 29, 2009

The Ignorant English Major

I was expecting a considerable spike in my feelings of homesickness due to the omnipresent holiday season. That wasn’t really the case, though. I still miss my dog, but not anymore than I did before November 26th. My excitement to obliterate zombie motherfuckers with my brother again has stayed relatively constant. I picture my parents sitting on the couch watching Home Improvement with the same nostalgia I harbored when Christmas lights weren’t strung through every nook and cranny of this city. Hell, even seeing my friend Leah enjoying the company of her biological parents at Thanksgiving dinner didn’t inspire in me a flood of Southeastern Ohio longing. To my own surprise, I’m pretty good in that respect.

I’m doing pretty good. All of my papers are going to get done, and they might not even suck too bad. I drank too much wine at the IES-sponsored Thanksgiving meal (pumpkin flan: appreciated but better left as a theory) and may have sexually assaulted the social coordinator, Nicolas. I went to a soccer match in which bad calls were made and French spectators jeered their own team. (French crowds here are not terribly forgiving.) I purchased the pinnacle of cliché European souvenirs – the soccer scarf. It has yellow fringe. Back off. On Saturday Ruth and I shared a plate of sushi and afterwards we toasted with matching peanut-M&M-and-caramel McFlurries.


I’m doing pretty good.

However, I’m worried about my brain. It’s getting to the point where I’m not really sure about my memories. I mean, maybe I remember things as they really were. But maybe I don’t. Maybe my subconscious manipulates dates and events and feelings in an attempt to provoke more poetry (Note: I originally wrote “provoque” here and argued with Spell-check for almost a minute as to the correct spelling. Thank you, France.); maybe my brain changes it all so that when connections are made, they’re all the more symbolic or blog-worthy.

For example, I went for a run today. I jogged around the Doulon quarter and through several adjacent, humble neighborhoods. I was insistent upon getting in a run today; I’ve been tolerating a cold for the past couple of days, and nothing clears the sinuses like a couple glorious run-in-the-cold-induced nostril rockets. Ask anyone who ran cross country in high school. There really isn’t anything quite like utterly cleansing your nostrils of mucous in point-five seconds flat. Truth be told, it’s probably the closest thing to sex I’ve ever experienced. And that, my friends, is the furthest thing from the point.

Okay, so yeah. I decided to walk the last half-mile. The night sky was washed with a muted orange, and I felt a slower pace would encourage a better appreciation of the world around me. I do have less than three weeks remaining, after all.

When I turned the corner near the petite maison that I’ve called home for these past months, I saw a black cat. Now, let me tell you something about this cat: I see him everyday. Everyday and every night when I come home, I see the same black cat sauntering like an inebriated diva down to stage front. You would think it was wearing rhinestone heels or something. (Again, not the point.) We’ve exchanged a couple words, sure, but nothing too penetrating. I’ll throw out a friendly “Bonsoir, Monsieur Chat Visage.” The cat’s not much for pleasantries. However, today I decided to sit down for a moment and admire the planes that continually sweep across the Nantes sky, and—I’ll be damned—that cat walks right up to me and begins to rub against my legs. Being of a good nature, I obliged the bringer of bad luck by stroking his back and tail. It rewarded my massage with a respectable impersonation of Eartha Kitt. Apparently she’s dead. I think I remember reading something about that.

And that’s when I remembered: After the very first awkward dinner during my very first awkward night here, I took a walk around my new neighborhood. I remember that I wanted to get lost. I remember the feeling that everything around me seemed so foreign. I remember being attracted to buildings and signs simply for the fact that I didn’t recognize them. I remember getting lost. I remember how ugly everything looked, painted with the stale white of streetlights. I remember getting more lost. I remember how thick the air felt on the back of my neck, how bitter the breeze tasted when I yawned. I remember—and am still under the impression—that each plastered wall; each narrow, car-lined street; and each self-effacing French home looked remarkably like all the others. I remember sort of wanting my mommy. I thought about the IES kitchen earlier that day: The girl named Leah who reminded me so much of my friend Simone; the girl named Ruth whose friendship I would actively seek; the unparalleled anxiety that made my heart throb; the sound of my name being called with a French inflection; and I remember meeting my mere d’accueil, my host mother, and hoping she was nicer than she looked. As I walked beneath the same billboard (an Elton John concert, if I’m not mistaken) for the seventh time, I remember deciding that she was.

And then I was chez moi. I don’t really remember how I made my way back; however, I distinctly remember who was the first to greet me. That’s right – Monsieur Chat Visage. Of course, he was not Monsieur Chat Visage then. (This genius moniker would come later.) That night he was just a cat, but he was probably something more. I was oddly comforted by his iridescent eyes, fascinated by the aforementioned snobby slither. I would like to think we made a pact that night, an (obviously) unspoken agreement to, what? Casually acknowledge each other’s presence when we passed on the sidewalk? Afford each other one of those subtle head-tilts like two Chipotle-breathed bros?

This is getting aggressively abstract and progressively more stream-of-consciousness.

Point is, I remember thinking, This is important, this night and this cat. This means something. But now, as I enthusiastically avoid studying for my grammar exam tomorrow, I question the cat’s existence. Maybe my brain wants me to think that there was a cat, when, really, maybe it was a squirrel. Or a possum. Or really big bees.

I mean, if a really big bee had been the one to welcome me home—there’s a funny word—would I want to remember it as more than it was? Maybe if bees were more symbolic. I guess you can make the connections: bee = honey = nectar = flowers = earth = life = everything is connected. But that’s a stretch. I guess you would fare better trying to make an association between stingers and ... Maybe I should start reviewing adverbs. Maybe my brain should put down its Starbucks venti double-shot of something-or-other, take off the dark-rimmed glasses with the lenses popped out, and just watch MTV for a while. Its thighs are too big for skinny jeans, anyway.

Today I watched “A Charlie Brown Thanksgiving” on my computer while eating my last pumpkin pie-flavored Kashi bar. I can still remember watching Snoopy butter all that toast and pop all that popcorn when I was kid.

I think.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

The Ignorant Observor (Paris Edition)

My short time in the City of Lights inspired yet another list of pseudo-xenophobic considerations. Sorry, France.

22. The spirit of American Capitalism is alive and well at Paris Disneyland.
23. Having a Willie Nelson song stuck in your head during your trip to Paris will guarantee a major mindfuck.
24. Real hot chocolate should have the consistency of maple syrup and taste like Salvation.
25. Every man, woman, and child in Paris can speak English. The gypsies are fluent.
26. The homeless don’t take “No” for an answer.
27. The Mona Lisa is much smaller and less impressive than you think. It’s the Tom Cruise of classic art.
28. According to the laws of physics, the less time you have to reach the train station, the more traffic your taxi will encounter.
29. French veggie burgers are so much fucking better.
30. Always get your desserts to-go. They always taste better in bed.
31. According to the pallets of my parents—and despite all the hoopla—French coffee and tea suck.
32. The receptionist at the Best Western in the Saint Maurice district of Paris is a douche bag.
33. BBC ain’t so bad, after all.
34. The combination of candy corn and Nutella is not as good as you’d think. Actually, I guess it’s exactly as good as you’d think.
35. For every car in the metro station, there are three accordion players with hungry children to feed.
36. It doesn’t matter how well you pronounce the French "R". They will always respond in English. (This is true in all of France.)
37. Bathrooms with mirrored walls are a God-awful idea.
38. If I didn’t harbor a juvenile appreciation for Winnie the Pooh, Paris Disneyland would have been a lot less enjoyable. My dad probably would have had a better time, though.
39. If your metro car smells like shit, look beside you. You’re most likely sitting beside shit.
40. The Eiffel Tower is much larger and more impressive than you think. It’s the Dolly Parton of classic architecture. (Seriously, Youtube “Mountain Angel”. Don’t let the boobs fool you.)
41. The French are surprisingly adept at cooking sauerkraut.
42. I want what my parents have.

Monday, November 9, 2009

The Ignorant Son

The following was originally hand-written on the 20H34 train to Nantes from Paris on November 2, 2009.


It's exactly 21H00. (Isn't military time a bitch?) I'm on a train back to Nantes after a prolonged weekend with my parents in Paris. A French teenager is listening to "SexyBack" beside me, a mid-twenty-something with an impossibly full bottom lip is reading an English newspaper, and Dan Bejar is crooning about God-knows-what. Five post cards depicting the Eiffel Tower set against photo-shopped skies are stacked before me. An orange Disneyland band camouflages my tiny baby wrist, and page 29 is dog-eared in Ian McEwan's Amsterdam. (Though it may be a tad premature, I'm fairly certain I'm going to like this one.)

Yesterday my father told me that if someone had said to him, "One day you're going to see the Eiffel Tower," he couldn't have believed it. Why should he have? My father didn't go to college. Instead, he aged himself far beyond his years at an alloy plant for twenty years. But seven hours ago he stood staring at the great interwoven beams, the translucent clouds forming a halo around the very top, and I snapped a picture of him and my mother with a disposable camera.

When he was a kid my dad slept in a barn. His parents couldn't afford to feed all four of their children--my father was the oldest--so he was sent to work. I'm twenty-one years old, and I can say with certainty that I've never worked as hard or as long as my father did when he was only a child. He was breaking his back at the same age I was breaking Power Ranger action figures. He was fighting off hypothermia when I was just trying to find ways to avoid bathing. (I was a smelly kid.) But today he had white wine with his duck. It all makes his circumcision comment at the Grecian sculpture exhibit at the Louvre all the more inspirational. It also excuses the bulk of the we-saved-their-asses-in-World-War-II comments.

All things considered, I’m certain that the topic of most discussion among my parents and their coworkers will be the food. My father will reminisce about the soup with muscles my host-mother prepared; my mother will recall fondly the melted-candy-bar-thick hot chocolate we sipped at Les Deux Magots while hundreds of French passers-by attempted to out-power-walk the freezing air. My dad will undoubtedly mention the scarce nature of le petit déjeuner and its inexcusable absence of sausage. My mom will say the coffee sucked, be it with a more sophisticated parlance. She will talk about the wine. He will talk about how we saved their asses in World War II.

They will both mention all the walking.

But besides all of that, I’m not really sure what they’ll take away from our time together in the City of Lights. I don't honestly believe that it was a "dream come true" for either of them simply because I don't think Paris had occupied their thoughts before their baby boy decided to study in France; it was an experience neither of them had foreseen--or desired, truthfully--prior to my study abroad. Maybe that makes it less cinematic, but it makes it a hell of a lot more romanesque.

Regardless of the water cooler banter to come, I know we shared something important. For the first time in my life, I was able to take care of my parents. I read for them, ordered their meals, maneuvered the Paris metro, created the itinerary, and ultimately (and perhaps unfortunately), established myself as an adult. For five days I carried the reigns. Purchasing our train tickets with my own money--money that I earned through actual labor--felt like a kind of graduation from a solely symbolic period of my life. Although that doesn't quite reconcile twenty-one years of dependence, it represents a trend that I can only hope will continue. My parents can't pay for my Kashi forever. I mean, my dad really wants that hot rod.

I stole another glance of the Anglophone. Seriously, you’ve got to see these things. I’m not kidding. Slightly chapped for texture, framed by dark stubble, just begging for Burt’s Bees. Perpetual half-purse, you know? A pair of those matched with an orator’s tenor would prove the existence of God. Somebody get this guy something to chew.